Todra Gorge: Tips for Visiting this Hidden Gem
It was pitch black as we were getting closer to our destination for the night, but with the slightest silhouette of the canyons I could sense that we were surrounded by something pretty spectacular. And we were.
The Todra Gorge is a 6-8 hour drive (by car) from Marrakech. It is the perfect retreat away from the sensory overload that happens after spending a few days in the bustling city of Marrakech.
The air is fresher. The area is much quieter. You’re not being hassled to buy something at every corner anymore. And you feel as though you’ve found this hidden gem that not everyone knows about just yet. And you’re perfectly okay with that.
Getting there
Renting a car is the best way to see as much as you can of Morocco in a short amount of time. Sound scary, renting a car on another continent? Well, we can assure you that it’s not. With it comes a certain kind of freedom and there’s nothing else like it.
We had no problems, our car was good to us, and the representative at the airport spoke great English. (Many people in Morocco speak English, along with three or more other languages.)
We took a direct flight from Rome to Marrakech (90 euros RT, excluding bags), and after a few days in Marrakech we made the drive to Tinghir.
Morocco is safe. Use common sense. Don’t speed. There are police checkpoints quite often throughout cities along the drive. As long as you are driving slowly, you’ll be just fine. They will either have you stop and ask to see your passport, or wave you on through.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Riad Sephora and would highly recommend it.
No, it’s not a five star hotel. It is a lovely experience with the best hosts, a beautiful rooftop, phenomenal food, and five star views.
We paid $25 per night for a private room with a comfortable bed and a heater. We loved our stay. We will say, don’t be shocked that your shower is essentially a sprayer located right next to the toilet. It is as not awesome as it sounds, but… you can do it. We believe in you.
From Riad Sephora, it’s a twenty minute walk or a five minute drive to the start of the gorge where you will find a few vendors selling scarves and light blankets. No matter where you go in Morocco, you’ll be wishing you had a bigger suitcase.
If you have a car, do both the drive and the hike. You will find yourself getting two totally different perspectives of the surroundings that way.
Don’t Listen to the Guy that Tells You to Turn Around
Walk to the very last vendor down the paved stretch that is enclosed by massive red cliffs and you will reach a set of stairs. These stairs will set you on a (mostly) marked path to must-see views of the surroundings.
We had been walking all of maybe fifteen minutes along the trail when we came across another couple walking in our direction.
The guy asked us, “Are you all doing the whole loop?”
“Yep.” We responded.
He continued…
“We walked for awhile and it all looks the same, so we decided to turn around.”
“Yeah, I think it’s pretty much like this the whole way. There’s not much more to see,” another lady said walking back in their same direction.
Well good thing we like to see things for ourselves, because we did keep walking.
We saw less than ten people on the trail that day. When we had first arrived that morning, we had arrived at the same time as a tour van where about 15 people stepped out and were walking around taking pictures. By the time we had walked far enough to still be able to see them behind us, they were getting back in to the van – on to the next thing.
It’s easy to feel overwhelmed at even the less traveled places, where you can feel outnumbered and selfishly want to explore without so many people around.
Do a little hiking though and you’ll find that you can escape the mass crowds.
We took a fairly easy hike known as the Todra “Loop”, though we never found an actual loop. Beginning from those stairs you will walk along a marked path, walking on awhile along rocky terrain. Note that when I say “marked path”, I mean it’s a path where you can pretty much figure out how to follow it.
You will eventually reach a plateau. It takes about an hour or two to get there from the starting point depending on how skilled you are at hiking, how often you stop to admire the surroundings, and how often you have to make way so that ladies with their donkeys can pass.
Once you reach the plateau you will see views on either side of you. Beautiful views. But don’t stop there. If you continue to climb the rocks a bit higher, you will get an even more stunning perspective from the top. Trust us, it’s worth the climb.
And don’t worry, this isn’t a spoiler because the views are entirely different (much more spectacular) in person.
We continued on what we thought was the loop, but got a little off trail and couldn’t find where the loop continued.
If this happens to you, we don’t recommend trying to find your way. If you’ve lost the trail, just turn around and go back to the bottom. We attempted a bit of rock climbing, and I’m happy to say we’re alive and well because we decided to turn around.
Where to Eat
After a day of getting lost in the trails of Morocco, (just kidding, that wont happen if you follow our awesome instructions that don’t have an actual end to them) you’ll be craving some of that tanjine or tangia. No matter what kind of food you’re in to, just about every one can get down with the two dishes.
You will find it everywhere in Morocco. It’s a slow cooked stew with unique and flavorful spices and some of the most tender meat, vegetables, or both that you’ll ever eat in your life. Most dishes in Morocco are served with bread (lots of bread) and a side of olives. The difference between tanjine and tangia is simply how it’s cooked and the pot it is cooked in. From our time there we noticed that tajine is generally served with vegetables, while tangia is usually solely meat and spices. We need to spend more time in Morocco to explore this more.
We only ate at one place for every meal in Tinghir and that’s because it was some of the best food we had in all of Morocco. This place happened to be the place we were staying, Riad Sephora. Even if you don’t stay there, you must have one of their meals!
What was equivalent to $10 USD was the price of one meal, which was the most we paid for an individual meal while in Morocco, but it was super worth it and because of the semi-remote location, it was very convenient.
On both nights we ordered a couscous and a tanjia and split both. It was SO much food, Mike almost couldn’t finish his.
Don’t Take it Personal
While you’re hiking the Todra Loop, you will run in to women and children walking with their donkeys in either direction. We passed about five different groups along our way. Out of the five, four of them asked for money.
We choose not to hand over money while traveling. We did have a few candy bars in our bag that we passed along, which probably made someone’s night.
If you’re asked, don’t take it too personally. We live in two different spectrums, and our lives are incomparable to theirs. Those ladies walking with their donkeys are most likely going to sleep on the side of those mountains you were just staring at tonight. Politely smile and say no, and continue on your way of seeing the spectacular Morocco.
Stop at Aït Benhaddou
This was a planned stop along our route from Marrakech. We didn’t stay very long, but did get a nice look of the outside. Mike mentioned that the photos he had seen were much more impressive than the place itself. I’d have to agree, but it’s still cool to see. And again, you’ve got to go see for yourself if it’s on your list.
It should be free to walk through the dwellings, but we were hassled by an older man and two kids trying to make us pay. We decided to walk along the outside instead, so that we could make it to Tinghir not too long after dark.
Tip: There’s a parking area that’s easy to spot right as you’re entering town near the dwellings. It’s generally men who post up and ask for money in return for parking. There’s not a set amount, and most likely – he’s not paid to be there. Give him your lowest coin (or whatever you want) and continue on your way.
Don’t Forget the Mint Tea
I don’t know what they do to that tea, but they’ve got it down to a science. The mint tea is not only sweet and so refreshing that you’re wanting glass after glass, but it’s an experience – just like Bosnian coffee.
It comes with memorable experiences and a reason to sit down and simply enjoy the act of being without doing anything but sipping that sweet warm glass leaving even your hands feeling content. It makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside, and somehow, regardless of all that sugar in it, makes you feel at ease.
You don’t drink beer in Morocco. You drink mint tea. So drink up.
